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Gravel Bikes

Keep this in mind when purchasing a new Gravel bike

You want to buy a Gravel-Bike or learn more about Gravel? You wonder if Gravel-Biking is just an entertaining fad or already an established way of cycling?

There are many myths surrounding the topic of Gravel, there are numerous events and rides and every year new Gravel-Bikes are launched on the market. But that’s not all, because technical descriptions like 650B or Dropbar, as well as bikes of similar categories like Cross-Bikes make sure that you quickly lose the overview. The term bikepacking is often used in connection with gravel. Here we give you an overview of the topic and what you should consider when buying a gravel bike.

What is a Gravel-Bike?

Let’s start with the technical conditions that make a bike a gravel bike. If you look at a gravel bike from a distance, it looks a lot like a road bike. There’s the sporty frame, the road bike handlebars (or drop bar) and the tidy appearance without lights, fenders or the like.

On closer inspection, however, it is noticeable that a Gravel-Bike has disc brakes and — for a road bike — rather thick tyres, some of them even with a coarse tread. Some bikes also have a single derailleur — no front derailleur or only one chainring. Bolt holes or eyelets at various points of the frame also provide the possibility to attach bikepacking bags, mudguards or even a light system.

If you go one step further and take a seat on a Gravel-Bike, you will notice in most cases that the bike offers a rather relaxed seating position. Not only can you do leisurely laps after work, but also really long tours over one or even several days.

As already mentioned, wide tires fit into a modern Gravel-Bike. Exactly how wide these can be varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. But often it is up to 40 mm tire width or even more. Some bikes even offer the possibility to install 27.5 inch wheels. These are also called 650b and offer more traction and comfort due to their higher volume. So you can ride on really rough terrain. But attention: not every Gravel-Bike can take this kind of wheels. Some models come with 650b wheels ex works, others only fit the usual 28 inch or 700c wheels.

Since the last gram of weight is not necessarily important for gravel bikes, these bikes are rather designed for durability. The built-in parts, the frame and the fork should be able to withstand a lot. Therefore they are characterized by a robust construction. Furthermore, all models are also suitable for women. There are no special Gravel-Bikes for women as such.

The sum of the individual parts of a Gravel-Bike results in a sporty, but above all comfortable bike, mostly with road handlebars, a lot of tire clearance, disc brakes and the possibility to attach the bikepacking equipment or other equipment to it.

The features at a glance:

• moderate sporty to relaxed geometry
• mostly racing bike handlebars
• wide tyres, partly with tread
• Mounting points for various attachments
• durable components
• suitable for ladies and gentlemen

Why a Gravel-Bike? What are the advantages?

The advantages of a Gravel-Bike are as manifold as the bikes themselves. If you like, gravel bikes combine the advantages of all bike categories.

First of all, the bikes are really fast bikes that get you from A to B super fast. Many people use gravel bikes for commuting as commuter bikes, because they are very similar to racing bikes. The sturdy construction is easy to use in all weathers, so you can get to work quickly.

But not only on the way to work Gravel-Bikes offer themselves, but also to undertake long bicycle tours. The relaxed geometry combined with the sporty riding experience makes Gravel-Bikes ideal for this.

The best thing is, of course, that you don’t have to worry about the surface being a bit rougher when choosing your route. All roads are open to you! This is probably the biggest advantage of a gravel bike: the wide tyres also make off-road use on moderate mountain bike trails possible. This means that typical gravel roads are no longer a problem in addition to farm and forest roads. The change of the underground is exactly the attraction of the Gravel-Bikes.

With a racing bike you are really fast on the road, but rough surfaces are taboo due to the thin tyres. With a Gravel-Bike, however, almost all possible routes are passable.

But gravel bikes are not only universal all-rounders when it comes to the surface. Also in terms of equipment and attachment options, almost all models can score with great variety. Depending on the manufacturer and model, the modern bikes from 2020 offer the possibility to mount almost everything. For the dark season you would like a permanently installed lighting system? No problem. You want to go on a long bikepacking adventure and are looking for eyelets to attach the equipment? There are. In autumn and winter you want to attach fenders? That also works perfectly.

The advantages at a glance:

• universally applicable
• greater planning freedom for tours as any type of ground can be travelled
• offer sufficient comfort
• are robust and durable
• suitable for off-road use

Gravel bike and cyclocrosser, isn’t that the same thing?

With the characteristics and equipment mentioned above, you can ask yourself: And what exactly is the difference to cyclocross bikes? Isn’t this also a racing bike for off-road use? Yes, crosser or cyclocross bikes are very similar to gravel bikes in many ways, but in some aspects they are also very different. The two main differences are the tire clearance and the geometry. Gravel bikes can in most cases accommodate much wider tires because their frame is designed to accommodate them.

The other difference is the geometry, which is mainly responsible for the seating position. Gravel bikes are primarily designed for comfort and long distances. Cyclocross bikes, on the other hand, are designed for races that usually last no more than an hour. Therefore, the geometry there is much more sporty and the seating position is not as comfortable.

How does a Gravel bike ride?

Although, as already mentioned, it is sporty but still very comfortable to ride, the general riding characteristics depend very much on the model. Not only do the frame geometries differ, but also the materials the bikes are made of. Besides aluminium and carbon, some Gravel bikes are also made of steel. The frame material of course has a significant influence on how a bike feels when riding. Gravel bikes made of steel are usually somewhat heavier, but have a higher self-damping capacity. Aluminium bikes are often lighter than steel bikes. The front-runner in terms of weight remains the carbon frame, however. These are extremely light, but also much more expensive.

Of course, the specific tire width and size also plays an important role in the riding experience. The more volume the tyres have, the more relaxed the ride. However, the overall handling becomes less agile with increasing tire width and size. Accordingly, this measure is another individual factor when it comes to the riding feel of a Gravel bike.

Basically it can be said that gravel bikes offer a relaxed riding experience. In addition, these bikes score points for comfort and smoothness of ride.

The riding characteristics at a glance:

• comfortable
• smooth running
• sporty
• dynamic

For whom is a Gravel-Bike suitable?

A Gravel-Bike is a very versatile and almost universal bicycle. But for whom exactly is such a Gravel-Bike suitable? The answer is quite simple: for almost everyone. A Gravel-Bike can really cover almost all areas of cycling. With thinner tyres — for example 28 mm — it is more like a fast road bike, but with 650b wheels and 47 mm wide tyres it is almost a mountain bike.

Gravel bikers are basically very multifaceted. There are gravel bikers who prefer to ride around comfortably and stop at every café and beer garden. Others, on the other hand, love a challenge and plunge their bikes into the craziest adventures and long-distance rides of up to 400 kilometres and more with changing surfaces.

But what surely unites all Gravel bikers is the love for nature and the desire to ride a robust, as well as durable, high quality bike. They are not necessarily interested in setting new best times in races, but rather in experiencing something in nature.

A Gravel-Bike is therefore suitable for all those who like to be outdoors and want to cycle on different surfaces all year round. With the possibility of adding various attachments, such as mudguards or a lighting system, you can use gravel bikes 365 days a year.

The areas of use at a glance:

• year-round cycling
• Commuting
• changing substrates
• Multi-day tours
• Bike-Packing

How much does a Gravel-Bike cost?

It is like all other things: there is almost no limit to the price. The lower limit is about the 600 Euro mark. In general, gravel bikes can be divided into the entry-level middle and upper class in terms of price.

In the entry-level class up to about 1.200,- Euro there is a stable basis in the Gravel world. The frames are mostly made of aluminium or steel. The disc brakes are often mechanical and the gears are kept simple. The total weight of beginner Gravel bikes is in most cases above the ten kilogram mark.

In the next price category, for up to 2.000,- Euro, there are better gears and mostly hydraulic disc brakes. The frame materials can also be aluminium and steel, but are then often made of better alloys. The ten kilogram limit is usually broken by middle class Gravel bikes.

Absolutely high-end Gravel-Bikes are mostly made of carbon and their equipment elements play in the first league in all areas. This applies to the gearshift and brake system, wheels and all other attachments. Usually such Gravel-Bikes cost from about 2.200,- Euro upwards and weigh less than nine kilograms.

In all price ranges you can get gravel bikes that you can rely on and trust on your way. With quality and longevity, all gravel bikes can usually score points — even if the price differences naturally affect performance and handling.

The costs at a glance:

• Beginner variants from 600,- to about 1.200,- Euro
• Middle class Gravel-Bikes go up to about 2.000,- Euro
• High-end Gravel bikes start from around 2,200 euros

What do you have to look out for when buying a Gravel-Bike?

Now it is called Gravel-Bikes for Sale, but what do you have to pay attention to when buying a Gravel-Bike? Since there are no special Gravel-Bikes for women, there is no need to separate the sexes. The question you have to ask yourself when buying a bike is mainly about the specific area of use and the frequency of your rides.

If your new gravel bike is going to be used on really hard gravel roads or even flowing trails, then you should choose a model that can take 650b wheels and offers solid equipment. But if you are riding on moderate forest tracks and asphalt, the 700c wheels with about 35 mm tire width will be sufficient.

The geometry is quite similar. If you prefer to ride fast and not so long, then a sporty gravel bike should suit you best. But if you want to go on (very) long tours and bikepacking adventures, a more moderate gravel bike is better suited for you.

But not only the length of your rides is important for the choice, also how often you want to sit on the bike at all. If you only want to use your new gravel bike once a week for a short spin, a bike from the beginner category up to 1.200,- Euro will certainly be sufficient. But if you plan regular rides and even real training, then it is worth increasing your budget to at least 2,000 euros.

Important criteria at a glance:

• How often do you want to ride your gravel bike?
• How long should the tours last?
• How rough are the surfaces?
• Do you have preferences regarding the frame material?

Conclusion on the topic of Gravel

If we now summarize all the information, then a Gravel-Bike is made for use on changing surfaces. Long tours can be ridden very well. Because of the many mounting possibilities it can also be used for commuting and bikepacking. Gravel bikes are robust and durable and are aimed at riders who like to ride fast.

One thing we can tell you in conclusion: We love gravel bikes and strongly advise you to try it yourself. But be careful: The new freedom to ride and have fun on all roads has a huge addictive factor.

In our category Gravel-Bikes you will find a large selection of different bikes from Rondo, Orbea, Fuji, Bombtrack, Cinelli, Giant, Aventon, Octane One, Breezer, NS Bikes, Creme Cycles and Genesis.

You want to buy a Gravel-Bike or learn more about Gravel? You wonder if Gravel-Biking is just an entertaining fad or already an established way of cycling?

There are many myths surrounding the topic of Gravel, there are numerous events and rides and every year new Gravel-Bikes are launched on the market. But that’s not all, because technical descriptions like 650B or Dropbar, as well as bikes of similar categories like Cross-Bikes make sure that you quickly lose the overview. The term bikepacking is often used in connection with gravel. Here we give you an overview of the topic and what you should consider when buying a gravel bike.

What is a Gravel-Bike?

Let’s start with the technical conditions that make a bike a gravel bike. If you look at a gravel bike from a distance, it looks a lot like a road bike. There’s the sporty frame, the road bike handlebars (or drop bar) and the tidy appearance without lights, fenders or the like.

On closer inspection, however, it is noticeable that a Gravel-Bike has disc brakes and — for a road bike — rather thick tyres, some of them even with a coarse tread. Some bikes also have a single derailleur — no front derailleur or only one chainring. Bolt holes or eyelets at various points of the frame also provide the possibility to attach bikepacking bags, mudguards or even a light system.

If you go one step further and take a seat on a Gravel-Bike, you will notice in most cases that the bike offers a rather relaxed seating position. Not only can you do leisurely laps after work, but also really long tours over one or even several days.

As already mentioned, wide tires fit into a modern Gravel-Bike. Exactly how wide these can be varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. But often it is up to 40 mm tire width or even more. Some bikes even offer the possibility to install 27.5 inch wheels. These are also called 650b and offer more traction and comfort due to their higher volume. So you can ride on really rough terrain. But attention: not every Gravel-Bike can take this kind of wheels. Some models come with 650b wheels ex works, others only fit the usual 28 inch or 700c wheels.

Since the last gram of weight is not necessarily important for gravel bikes, these bikes are rather designed for durability. The built-in parts, the frame and the fork should be able to withstand a lot. Therefore they are characterized by a robust construction. Furthermore, all models are also suitable for women. There are no special Gravel-Bikes for women as such.

The sum of the individual parts of a Gravel-Bike results in a sporty, but above all comfortable bike, mostly with road handlebars, a lot of tire clearance, disc brakes and the possibility to attach the bikepacking equipment or other equipment to it.

The features at a glance:

• moderate sporty to relaxed geometry
• mostly racing bike handlebars
• wide tyres, partly with tread
• Mounting points for various attachments
• durable components
• suitable for ladies and gentlemen

Why a Gravel-Bike? What are the advantages?

The advantages of a Gravel-Bike are as manifold as the bikes themselves. If you like, gravel bikes combine the advantages of all bike categories.

First of all, the bikes are really fast bikes that get you from A to B super fast. Many people use gravel bikes for commuting as commuter bikes, because they are very similar to racing bikes. The sturdy construction is easy to use in all weathers, so you can get to work quickly.

But not only on the way to work Gravel-Bikes offer themselves, but also to undertake long bicycle tours. The relaxed geometry combined with the sporty riding experience makes Gravel-Bikes ideal for this.

The best thing is, of course, that you don’t have to worry about the surface being a bit rougher when choosing your route. All roads are open to you! This is probably the biggest advantage of a gravel bike: the wide tyres also make off-road use on moderate mountain bike trails possible. This means that typical gravel roads are no longer a problem in addition to farm and forest roads. The change of the underground is exactly the attraction of the Gravel-Bikes.

With a racing bike you are really fast on the road, but rough surfaces are taboo due to the thin tyres. With a Gravel-Bike, however, almost all possible routes are passable.

But gravel bikes are not only universal all-rounders when it comes to the surface. Also in terms of equipment and attachment options, almost all models can score with great variety. Depending on the manufacturer and model, the modern bikes from 2020 offer the possibility to mount almost everything. For the dark season you would like a permanently installed lighting system? No problem. You want to go on a long bikepacking adventure and are looking for eyelets to attach the equipment? There are. In autumn and winter you want to attach fenders? That also works perfectly.

The advantages at a glance:

• universally applicable
• greater planning freedom for tours as any type of ground can be travelled
• offer sufficient comfort
• are robust and durable
• suitable for off-road use

Gravel bike and cyclocrosser, isn’t that the same thing?

With the characteristics and equipment mentioned above, you can ask yourself: And what exactly is the difference to cyclocross bikes? Isn’t this also a racing bike for off-road use? Yes, crosser or cyclocross bikes are very similar to gravel bikes in many ways, but in some aspects they are also very different. The two main differences are the tire clearance and the geometry. Gravel bikes can in most cases accommodate much wider tires because their frame is designed to accommodate them.

The other difference is the geometry, which is mainly responsible for the seating position. Gravel bikes are primarily designed for comfort and long distances. Cyclocross bikes, on the other hand, are designed for races that usually last no more than an hour. Therefore, the geometry there is much more sporty and the seating position is not as comfortable.

How does a Gravel bike ride?

Although, as already mentioned, it is sporty but still very comfortable to ride, the general riding characteristics depend very much on the model. Not only do the frame geometries differ, but also the materials the bikes are made of. Besides aluminium and carbon, some Gravel bikes are also made of steel. The frame material of course has a significant influence on how a bike feels when riding. Gravel bikes made of steel are usually somewhat heavier, but have a higher self-damping capacity. Aluminium bikes are often lighter than steel bikes. The front-runner in terms of weight remains the carbon frame, however. These are extremely light, but also much more expensive.

Of course, the specific tire width and size also plays an important role in the riding experience. The more volume the tyres have, the more relaxed the ride. However, the overall handling becomes less agile with increasing tire width and size. Accordingly, this measure is another individual factor when it comes to the riding feel of a Gravel bike.

Basically it can be said that gravel bikes offer a relaxed riding experience. In addition, these bikes score points for comfort and smoothness of ride.

The riding characteristics at a glance:

• comfortable
• smooth running
• sporty
• dynamic

For whom is a Gravel-Bike suitable?

A Gravel-Bike is a very versatile and almost universal bicycle. But for whom exactly is such a Gravel-Bike suitable? The answer is quite simple: for almost everyone. A Gravel-Bike can really cover almost all areas of cycling. With thinner tyres — for example 28 mm — it is more like a fast road bike, but with 650b wheels and 47 mm wide tyres it is almost a mountain bike.

Gravel bikers are basically very multifaceted. There are gravel bikers who prefer to ride around comfortably and stop at every café and beer garden. Others, on the other hand, love a challenge and plunge their bikes into the craziest adventures and long-distance rides of up to 400 kilometres and more with changing surfaces.

But what surely unites all Gravel bikers is the love for nature and the desire to ride a robust, as well as durable, high quality bike. They are not necessarily interested in setting new best times in races, but rather in experiencing something in nature.

A Gravel-Bike is therefore suitable for all those who like to be outdoors and want to cycle on different surfaces all year round. With the possibility of adding various attachments, such as mudguards or a lighting system, you can use gravel bikes 365 days a year.

The areas of use at a glance:

• year-round cycling
• Commuting
• changing substrates
• Multi-day tours
• Bike-Packing

How much does a Gravel-Bike cost?

It is like all other things: there is almost no limit to the price. The lower limit is about the 600 Euro mark. In general, gravel bikes can be divided into the entry-level middle and upper class in terms of price.

In the entry-level class up to about 1.200,- Euro there is a stable basis in the Gravel world. The frames are mostly made of aluminium or steel. The disc brakes are often mechanical and the gears are kept simple. The total weight of beginner Gravel bikes is in most cases above the ten kilogram mark.

In the next price category, for up to 2.000,- Euro, there are better gears and mostly hydraulic disc brakes. The frame materials can also be aluminium and steel, but are then often made of better alloys. The ten kilogram limit is usually broken by middle class Gravel bikes.

Absolutely high-end Gravel-Bikes are mostly made of carbon and their equipment elements play in the first league in all areas. This applies to the gearshift and brake system, wheels and all other attachments. Usually such Gravel-Bikes cost from about 2.200,- Euro upwards and weigh less than nine kilograms.

In all price ranges you can get gravel bikes that you can rely on and trust on your way. With quality and longevity, all gravel bikes can usually score points — even if the price differences naturally affect performance and handling.

The costs at a glance:

• Beginner variants from 600,- to about 1.200,- Euro
• Middle class Gravel-Bikes go up to about 2.000,- Euro
• High-end Gravel bikes start from around 2,200 euros

What do you have to look out for when buying a Gravel-Bike?

Now it is called Gravel-Bikes for Sale, but what do you have to pay attention to when buying a Gravel-Bike? Since there are no special Gravel-Bikes for women, there is no need to separate the sexes. The question you have to ask yourself when buying a bike is mainly about the specific area of use and the frequency of your rides.

If your new gravel bike is going to be used on really hard gravel roads or even flowing trails, then you should choose a model that can take 650b wheels and offers solid equipment. But if you are riding on moderate forest tracks and asphalt, the 700c wheels with about 35 mm tire width will be sufficient.

The geometry is quite similar. If you prefer to ride fast and not so long, then a sporty gravel bike should suit you best. But if you want to go on (very) long tours and bikepacking adventures, a more moderate gravel bike is better suited for you.

But not only the length of your rides is important for the choice, also how often you want to sit on the bike at all. If you only want to use your new gravel bike once a week for a short spin, a bike from the beginner category up to 1.200,- Euro will certainly be sufficient. But if you plan regular rides and even real training, then it is worth increasing your budget to at least 2,000 euros.

Important criteria at a glance:

• How often do you want to ride your gravel bike?
• How long should the tours last?
• How rough are the surfaces?
• Do you have preferences regarding the frame material?

Conclusion on the topic of Gravel

If we now summarize all the information, then a Gravel-Bike is made for use on changing surfaces. Long tours can be ridden very well. Because of the many mounting possibilities it can also be used for commuting and bikepacking. Gravel bikes are robust and durable and are aimed at riders who like to ride fast.

One thing we can tell you in conclusion: We love gravel bikes and strongly advise you to try it yourself. But be careful: The new freedom to ride and have fun on all roads has a huge addictive factor.

In our category Gravel-Bikes you will find a large selection of different bikes from Rondo, Orbea, Fuji, Bombtrack, Cinelli, Giant, Aventon, Octane One, Breezer, NS Bikes, Creme Cycles and Genesis.

Do you remember wearing pants? No? That’s OK–we won’t tell anyone.

When you finally decide to ditch the sweats for actual pants, this custom Lezyne belt/buckle will have you looking like it’s 2019 again. The trim-to-fit belt measures 1.75″ x 48″, and is housed in a swanky, CNC-machined storage case.

Flat Pedal Shoe Roundup

In a year that could best be described as a never-ending dumpster fire, 2020 was an unexpected wellspring for flat pedal aficionados in the form of lower prices and refined functionality. Not wanting to miss out on the pedals’ increased popularity, shoe manufacturers responded with more choices for flat-friendly footwear. Is more necessarily better, though? To answer that question, I spent nine months testing flat pedal shoes from Five Ten, Northwave, Pearl iZUMi and Ride Concepts.

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If there’s one thing that 2020 has taught me, it’s that every ride is a gift. Regardless of distance, speed, or any other metric, every journey has been an opportunity to regain some semblance of control, and experience joy in what’s been an extremely bleak year.

Bandana Giveaway

Tired of wearing the same old face covering, neckerchief, or do-rag? You’re in luck! GRAVELBIKE is giving away four, brand-new bandanas to one lucky winner. These bandanas were promotional items from industry trade shows, so you’re unlikely to see anyone else sporting the same design at the trailhead, grocery store, or your next Zoom meeting.

Friday Photo

Fall is definitely here…

48 Best Gravel Bikes

A gravel bike uses drop handlebars, but rides on a range of off-road surfaces. This includes anything from hardpack to crunchy trails. They’re not just limited to ‘gravel’.

Gravel bikes are lighter and more agile than mountain bikes. This matches them to longer, less-technical rides at a more consistent pace. They’re more robust than road bikes, with geometry that’s more laid-back, to suit all-day rides.

The carefree nature of gravel riding differentiates it from road cycling. ‘Gravel-grinding’ races like the ‘Dirty Kanza’ are popular, but a lot of gravel riding is about outdoor exploration off the beaten track.

Some folk are happy to define the gravel bike as the missing link between road cycling and mountain biking. They’re not far off.

Features of Gravel Bikes

‘Gravel’ Bikes ride a variety of roads and trails

Road, mountain and cyclocross bikes are cousins of the gravel bike. So why not use your existing bike to ride gravel? Well, it’s not quite the same.

Technological advances have led to materials becoming lighter and stronger. This has led to the emergence of a new kind of bike. It weighs less than a mountain bike and doesn’t use suspension.

They resemble road bikes, with drop bars and relatively narrow tubing. At the same time, their geometry can lean toward the slacker angles of a mountain bike. But aside from these familiar features, gravel bikes are their own thing. Here’s why.

Geometry

Although gravel bike geometries vary, most models share specific build characteristics. This is where they differ from your existing road, cyclocross or mountain bike.

Wheelbases

Gravel bikes have longer wheelbases than road and cyclocross bikes. This results in a stable ride on loose terrain. However, they’re shorter than those found on adventure and touring bikes, which don’t need to be as racy or agile.

Head Tube Angles

Slacker angles for shredding and trails

Compared to road and cyclocross bikes, gravel bikes employ slacker head tube angles and taller head tubes. This increases stability and makes for less ‘twitchy’ steering. Your stance on a gravel bike is less aggressive and more upright than on a road racing machine, while still being quick-handling.

Standard Ranges

• Road – 73° to 74°
• Cyclocross – 71.5° and 73°
• Gravel – 70° to 72°

Some gravel bikes are more influenced by mountain bike geometry. They use a head angle between 67° and 69° and are apt to shred. They perform well on descents and trails.

Top Tubes

Top tubes on gravel bikes are generally shorter than the top tubes of road bikes. This creates a more upright stance that aids visibility.

Chainstays

Steeper angles for a racier approach

Longer stays also contribute to stability. Shorter chainstays give a snappier feel, that comes across as faster to ride and accelerate. Here’s how gravel chainstays compare:

• Road: 405mm to 415mm
• Cyclocross:

Bottom Brackets

These are lower than those on cyclocross bikes, to keep things steady on descents. Road bikes might use 65 to 74mm of ‘drop’. A touring bike can have up to 80mm. For a gravel bike, expect 70 to 75mm of bottom bracket drop. A bottom bracket height of 260-280mm provides ample clearance on gravel.

Fork ‘Trail’

This can be summarized as a measure of how casual your bike’s steering is. More trail results in relaxed and stable handling. Less trail makes for a twitchy, agile bike. Gravel bikes usually have more trail than a road bike, but less than a touring rig.

When choosing your new gravel bike, be aware that there is a difference between the feel and riding style offered by different geometries of gravel bike. Some folk prefer a racier bike that employs steeper angles. Others stray closer to mountain bike geometry, where angles are slacker and trails are rougher.

Frames

Gravel bikes are sold with frames made from aluminum, chromoly steel, carbon fiber and titanium. These materials offer differing ride qualities and levels of durability.

Carbon Fiber

Full carbon rig

Carbon fiber is light and compliant. It’s able to offer a degree of flex that adds to comfort, but doesn’t compromise stiffness. The nature of carbon allows framebuilders to use aerodynamic tubing, whilst maintaining comfortable ride characteristics.

Carbon fiber isn’t invincible. When a frame begins to fail, it can be hard to spot. Damage can start internally, making it difficult to monitor. When it hits, it can be fatal, causing a critical break or snap. These breakages may be irreparable or very expensive to have mended.

If you plan on longer, overnight rides in remote areas, carbon might not be your flavor. That said, breakages don’t happen easily or soon. Carbon fiber is well-loved by manufacturers and gravel enthusiasts.

Steel

Compliant & tough. 853 steel and a carbon fiber fork

Higher-end chromoly steel recipes are used and favored by some gravel riders and framebuilders. Heavier, duller steels would be too tiring and cumbersome for long off-road rides.

Steels such as Reynolds 853, 725 and 4130 Chromoly exhibit a subtle degree of flex that reduces jounce on juddery roads and trails. Well-built steel frames are very tough, especially in 853 and 725 recipes.

These frames won’t fail easily, but if or when they finally do, it will happen by slow degrees. You won’t experience the sudden snap that can occur with aluminum or carbon fiber. Steel frames can be repaired by a decent number of technicians, at a price that is usually lower than for carbon fiber.

Steel will never be lighter than high-end carbon fiber, but it will probably beat it on price.

Aluminum

With a carbon fiber fork, this alloy bike received good reviews

Aluminum is lightweight and affordable. But it’s also stiff. Often, it’s inability to absorb vibration can make it too stiff for gravel riding. For this reason, it’s best paired with a carbon fiber fork.

When aluminum fails, it can fail hard, by snapping in twain. It isn’t economically feasible to repair an aluminum frame.

Overall, aluminum is less durable than the other materials mentioned here. But given it’s price, it represents good value.

The stiffness of aluminum frames can be offset by:

• A compliant fork in another material, such as carbon fiber.
• A longer, flexible seatpost, made of a less stiff material.
• High volume tires. This might mean a switch to 650b.

A good aluminum frame will give you years of lightweight riding pleasure.

Titanium

Titanium – perfect for the dream bike

Titanium is a good material for a custom-built dream-bike. It’s light, compliant and comfortable, while being dent and corrosion-resistant. Titanium is very strong, which can make it perfect for a bike build that’s intended to last a lifetime.

Titanium frame manufacture is challenging and expensive, which is reflected in the prices of framesets and complete bikes. For your first gravel bike, a titanium purchase might be a bit rash. Unless you’re blessed with deep pockets.

Frames and Pricing

Aluminum frames make for the cheapest available gravel bikes. High-quality steel options are a step up in cost. You’ll find them available for prices below and equal to that of some carbon fiber bikes. Titanium is always a serious investment, but more expensive carbon fiber choices are comparable.

Forks

Carbon fork with eyelets for cargo

Your bike’s fork should complement your frame. As was discussed in the section on frames (above), a stiff aluminum frame is best paired with a forgiving carbon fiber fork. However, some carbon fiber forks are not suited to carrying weightier loads. Read on.

Steel

Steel forks are either custom, high-end jobbies or heavy and low-end. Quality steel is compliant and welcomes cargo mounts for bottles and cages. It will be heavier than carbon. For this reason, some manufacturers pair their high quality steel frames with a carbon fork.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber is the material of choice for mid-range and high-end gravel bikes, built of any frame material. A carbon fork decreases weight and absorbs vibration well.

Some carbon fiber forks are not drilled for bottle mounts. If you aim to take your gravel bike on long overnight expeditions, choose carefully. Many riders use lighter loads with a carbon fork.

Aluminum

Your fork will take a lot of the brunt of impacts, with your weight bearing down on it during descents. Aluminum does not absorb vibration well. For this reason, you’ll want to avoid it as a fork material. An aluminum fork makes for a an uncomfortable ride over gravel. You’ll see many aluminum gravel bikes paired with a carbon fiber fork.

Handlebars

Wide Flare + Moderate Drop = Gravel Bars

Gravel bikes use drop bars. These suit riding at a faster and more consistent pace than is desired on technical mountain-biking trails (where riders seek upright visibility whilst negotiating obstacles). On your gravel steed, you might find yourself needing to really ‘mash it’, ‘grind it’ or even to ‘stomp it’.
In this case, you will be in need of drops.

“But drop bars have been around forever”, you say, “How are gravel bars any different?”

Width

The general rule is to match your handlebar width to your shoulder width. That said, some gravel riders chuck a couple of extra centimeters onto the width of their road bars, for extra control offroads. For clarity, gravel and road handlebars are always measured in centimeters, even in the U.S.A.

You’ll find most handlebars available in varying widths, from around 38cm to 52cm.

Flare

Flare is one of the main factors that stands out as a characteristic of gravel handlebars. Road bars employ negligible degrees of flare. Gravel bars, on the other hand, frequently feature flare between 12º and 16º. More extreme examples reach 25º. The flared angle allows room for the wrists, while pointing the elbows outward at a naturalized angle. This aids stability and control, by assisting leverage when you need it.

50mm of rise makes this a ‘Gravel X MTB’ bar

Rise hasn’t been such an important factor on gravel bars, until recently. Conservatively, those bars with rise use between 10mm and 20mm. Recent experimentation has seen this, er, rising to 50mm.

Gravel bars use a variety of shapes, varying in subtle and not-so-subtle ways. There are many types of bend available, for different hand positions. After you’ve ridden for a while with the bars specified on your new gravel bike, you will be able to better assess what factors you like and dislike. If you’re looking for a replacement bar, you will have a better idea of what it is that gives you the best combination of comfort and control.

Flats

You’ll use the flats of your drop bars when standing up on climbs and negotiating technical terrain. The flats can use different shapes. Some are ovalized, while others are thin, flat and aero. This type makes attachment of accessories more difficult.

Sweep

Bars using sweep, rise and minimal drop

Sweep isn’t common on the drop bars of new gravel bikes, but adopters of these bars give favorable reviews. Manufacturers claim that 5º to 10º of sweep aids ergonomics on climbs.

‘Drop’ is the distance from the stem clamp to the end of the bar. On gravel bikes, this varies between 110mm and 150mm. Gravel bars are often more compact than road bars. This avoids an extremely bent position, while maintaining ‘aero’ shaping in the hoods.

Reach

This is the distance from the stem clamp area to the furthest point of the drops. More reach pulls you forward. The average range here is between 56mm and 80mm.

Material

Most gravel bars are offered in either aluminum or carbon fiber.

• Aluminum is affordable and light but can be stiff and lead to fatigue.
• Carbon Fiber is light, tough and exhibits flex. It’s also more expensive and easy to scratch.

Things to consider

• Positions. Do your bike’s bars offer comfort in the drops, flats and hoods?
• Bags. Do your bars let you strap bags or attach a cradle?
• Cabling. Some bars feature channels for discrete cabling.

Brakes

Disc brakes are now the universal standard on new gravel bikes. The reasons for this are manifold.

• Stopping Power is superior to that of rim brakes.
• Untrue and Dented Rims will not affect disc braking in most situations.
• Rim Surfaces are not worn down by rim-braking.
• Confidence is increased in hillier areas.
• Long-Lasting Brake Pads can keep riders going for thousands of miles.

Even so, there are drawbacks to disc brakes:

• Disc Rotors are susceptible to bending during transportation.
• Contamination can occur from oils, lubes and other fluids.
• Spare Parts can be hard to obtain in remote locations.
• Repair and Adjustment is more complex than on rim brakes.
• Noise can be generated; when contaminated, bent or dirty.

Most gravel cyclists believe that the benefits of discs far outweigh the drawbacks.

Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Hydraulic disc brake

Hydraulic brakes use fluid or oil in an enclosed system and are the most powerful option available to gravel cyclists. They offer one or two-finger operation. Riders and reviewers report that modulation is superior, increasing the ability to ‘feather’ the brakes and to make minor adjustments in braking force.

The calipers of hydraulic brakes self-adjust in response to brake pad wear. But hydraulic brakes are not without complications. Installation and initial adjustments are not simple and require specialist tools. It’s best left to bike mechanics at your local bike shop. These brakes require regular bleeding using a ‘bleed kit’.

It will be difficult to source parts in remote areas, so if you are planning on longer journeys they may not be for you. Without a doubt, hydraulic brakes are more expensive than their mechanical counterparts.

Cable-Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Cable-Actuated Hydraulic disc brake

Cable-actuated hydraulic brakes seek to solve some of the problems encountered by hydraulic brakes. They use an enclosed hydraulic system that is actuated by a cable, making them a hybrid of hydraulic and mechanical systems.

They are easily adjustable via cable and don’t require regular bleeds.

Users have described them as being just as powerful as hydraulic brakes, while being well-suited to remote riding. Like mechanical brakes, they are compatible with any cable-actuated road brake lever.

While they are not self-adjusting (like hydraulic systems), they do offer an easy method for adjusting calipers.

Mechanical Disc Brakes

Mechanical disc brake

Like rim-brakes, mechanical disc brakes use cables to clamp brake pads onto a rotor. Compared to hydraulic disc brakes, this makes them easier to adjust and repair. They don’t use oil or fluid, and therefore they don’t require regular bleeding.

On the downside, mechanical disc brakes are less powerful than hydraulics. They are not self-adjusting and may stick in mud.

Braking Consideration

When you’re looking at brakes on new gravel bikes, there are some factors that will add or detract from your bike’s braking power and cost.

Rotor Size

New gravel bikes will come specced with systems built for either 140mm or 160mm brake rotors. Bigger pads offer more power and cost more. It’s common to see bikes with a 160mm front brake and 140mm rear.

Brake Pads

There are two types of disc brake pads, Organic and Sintered (metallic). Different pads are suited to different applications in different conditions.

Sintered Brake Pads

• Last longer in all conditions, especially mud and winter weather.
• Wear down discs more quickly than organic pads.
• Have less ‘bite’ than organic pads.
• Are more resistant to ‘heat-fade’, which improves performance on long descents.

Organic Brake Pads

• Offer more bite in all conditions.
• Are not as long lasting in mud and wet weather.

When looking at brakes on new bikes, you may want to keep an eye out for examples that are easily upgradable and also easily adjusted on-the-go, especially on mechanical examples.

Flat Mount disc brake	Post Mount disc brake

Aim for bikes that use the Flat Mount Standard, which is the most modern means of mounting disc brakes to a bike’s frame (unless you find a great deal on an older model that uses Post Mount Disc Brakes).

Gearing

What Makes Gravel Gearing Unique

Gravel gearing differs from road bike gearing in a few major ways. Riding on unpaved surfaces creates more friction, which makes pedaling that much harder. Also, gravel bikes use bigger tires than road bikes, creating a larger overall wheel diameter. Bigger wheels roll faster. In addition, gravel riders tend to encounter steeper climbs than the average road rider.

Gravel bikes go much lower in gearing than do road bikes, in order to haul big wheels up steep, slippery climbs. In order to get there, gravel drivetrains sacrifice a few of the highest gears found on road bikes. In the end, gravel bikes tend to have a wider gear range than road bikes.

Gravel drivetrains come in both 1x and 2x setups. That is, your new gravel bike may be offered with a single chainring (‘1x’ or ‘one-by’) or double chainring (2x). Some manufacturers offer their gravel bikes in both 1x and 2x.

1x Drivetrains

1x with a 40t chainring and an 11-42t cassette

The gravel bike scene is responsible for a spike in the popularity of 1x setups. Although these have been a staple of mountain bike builds for decades, they offer benefits specific to this style of riding.

A 1x setup jettisons the front derailleur and thereby simplifies operation, adjustment and maintenance of your drivetrain. It will also shave some weight off the overall build.

Generally speaking, 1x setups easily attain low gears for climbing. On the downside, the gaps between gears are larger than on a 2x drivetrain. This makes for a slightly clunkier gear-change experience. Many gravel cyclists are happy to make this sacrifice for the sake of simplicity and a lower ‘granny gear’ (your lowest gear).

Chainrings on 1x setups will mostly be 38 to 42 tooth in size. 40 tooth chainrings are popular.

Cassettes usually use cogs from 10 to 50 teeth in size, with 11-speed options being the standard. Popular examples are:

• 10-42t
• 11-42t

2x Drivetrains

Gravel-specific 46/30t crankset

The double chainring is still the option for many a gravel racer and rider. On more level surfaces, 2x setups combine with close ratio cassettes to produce closer gaps between gears. Although many 1x devotees seek simplicity, modern front-derailleurs are very reliable.

A 2x drivetrain is usually capable of offering a wider overall gear range than 1x. Although, 1x gear ranges on compact cassettes are approaching those available in 2x setups.

You may want to stick with 2x for long journeys on very hilly terrain. It will also suit better if you plan on using the one bike for both gravel and road riding.

2x with 47 / 32 tooth chainrings and an 11-34t cassette

Chainrings vary widely with preference, but expect to see most larger chainrings between 46 and 48 teeth. 50 teeth is more of a road size and will be too high for most gravel applications. Combinations on new bikes include:

• 48 / 32
• 48 / 31
• 47 / 32
• 46 / 34
• 46 / 33
• 46 / 30
• 42 / 28

Cassettes usually use close ratios and mostly sit in the range of:

• 10 to 33
• 11 to 32
• 11 to 34
• 11 to 36

The Contact Points

The ‘contact points’ are the three places where your body comes in contact with your bike. These parts are not technically complex but are still incredibly important to the ride quality of your bike. Adjustments to their quality and personal suitability can make huge differences to your level of comfort.

Saddles

Race saddle with carbon rails

Saddle choice is important on long distance rides. The best gravel bikes come with a decent quality saddle. Even so, it may not suit your particular body shape.

For most riders, comfort comes to mind as the main priority here. However, it’s important to consider your long-term groin and reproductive health. Specially-designed saddles take these issues into account by relieving pressure on the perineum.

A poorly designed saddle can cause numbness due to a restricted blood supply. Moderate padding is ideal, ensuring that your weight is supported by your sit-bones.

What’s good for the gooch is well worth a gander

There are numerous materials used for the construction of the saddle body and rails. Carbon fiber sheds weight in both areas. For rails, everything from chromoly to aluminum and titanium can be found. Consider your budget and your priorities (e.g. weight over cost etc.), when making a choice.

It probably wouldn’t be wise to base your choice of gravel bike on the saddle it comes proffered with. Saddle choice is highly subjective and most riders will change the seat on their new bike. The easiest way to choose a new saddle is try a few out at your local bike shop.

Bar Tape

Padded bar tape is often preferred on long-distance, off-road rides. Thinner tape is more likely to absorb surface vibration. This can result in sore hands and wrists, especially after longer rides. Padded tape insulates against shock on uneven surfaces.

Synthetic / EVA polymer tape is the usual specification on new bikes. Quality examples will have a foam or gel core that is comfortable and durable.

Padded synthetic tape	Comfy cork

Cork provides ample padding which results in a thick wrap. It’s porous nature gives it a tendency to absorb perspiration and grime.

Leather will take some breaking-in, but will become supple with time. Also, it’s aesthetically impressive. Keep in mind that it’s more difficult to wrap around your bars.

Leather: rugged	Fabrics get quirky

Fabric bar tape comes in funky designs but tends to be thin. It isn’t the best at absorbing off-road vibration.

Pedals

If you’re lucky, your new bike will arrive kit with decent pedals. Most likely though, they will be the first thing you’ll replace.

Clipless

Most gravel riders opt for ‘clipless’ pedals, which require the use of cycling shoes.

There are different systems of clipless pedal, with the most common being Shimano’s ‘SPD’. ‘TIME’ pedals are also highly suited to rugged terrain, as they allow the rider to quickly click their shoe out to the side of the pedal. Clipless pedals are favored by many long-distance riders, for a reason.

TIME gravel pedals	Clipless gravel shoes	SPD pedals

Clipless pedals increase efficiency (especially on climbs), as they pull the pedals on the upstroke. Once you’re accustomed to clipless, using them soon becomes second nature. There is a large range of gravel-specific clipless shoes now on the market. Most of these have chunkier tread than road bike shoes, for those moments when you need to walk and / or carry your bike over gnarly terrain.

Wheels

When you’re buying a complete gravel bike, it should come with wheels that are fit for purpose. Most gravel bikes are made for moderate off-road use, but not for full-on trails.

You’ll need to consider how ‘hard’ you intend to go on your gravel bike. You may want an off-the-shelf bike that can ride real mountain bike trails, in addition to hardpack (firm dirt roads) and gravel. In this case, you may be better off looking at adventure, monstercross or drop-bar mountain bikes, which will come kit out with wider rims to fit fatter tires.

The rims of gravel wheels are stronger and wider than their road bike counterparts. This means that they are considerably heavier, out of necessity.

If you intend to carry large loads on multi-night bikepacking trips, you might avoid carbon rims, as they’ve been known to flex in these conditions. You might even be better off considering a bikepacking bike.

Available new with 700c alloy wheels…	…or 650b hoops in carbon

New gravel bikes will either come shod with Aluminum or Carbon rims. Both materials work well and the choice is entirely based on preference. Carbon fiber rims will add considerable cost to a new gravel bike. Here are a few factors that may affect your choice.

Aluminum

+

• Strong
• Light
• Affordable
• Dented rims can often be repaired

–

• Slight weight penalty
• Some riders report flex on rough terrain

Carbon Fiber

+

• Light
• Stiff on trails
• Strong

–

• Can’t be repaired if cracked
• May flex under loads
• Expensive

Rim Width

This is one of the most important factors to consider about the wheels of your new bike. Along with your frame’s tire clearance, the width of your rims will dictate the maximum tire width available to you.

This 19mm road rim fits a max. 26mm tire…	…while this 27mm rim fits tires 47c and above

The size you are looking at is your wheel’s internal rim width. Different models vary in their recommended capacities, but there are general guidelines.

On 700c Wheels

• The internal widths of gravel rims usually sit between 21 and 27mm
• The internal width of gravel rims rarely exceeds 30mm
• 21mm rims can potentially fit tires up to 42mm wide
• 27mm rims can potentially fit tires up to 54mm wide

On 650b Wheels

• 24 to 28mm rims can potentially fit tires up to 54c and 27.5×2.2”

Spokes

Between 28 and 32 spokes is recommended on gravel bikes, for strength considerations.

Tubeless

You can see our section on gravel tires (below), for more information on the tubeless question. Most new gravel bikes will come with “tubeless-ready” rims that will cater for both tubed and tubeless options. This allows you to make up your own mind about this contentious issue, further down the road.

Sizes

With a 53mm tire, a 650b wheel (left) nears the diameter of this 700c wheel (right)

Generally speaking, gravel bikes will either have 700c or 650b wheels. Some bikes will allow for a wider tire on wider rims. A wider 700c rim is called 29 inch (29”), while a wider 650b is called 27.5”.

A number of new gravel bikes are offered with wheelsets in multiple sizes. These frames are usually designed to fit both 700c and 650b wheels.

This size is very common on gravel bikes. It’s the same size as found on modern road bikes.

This 700c rig has clearance for a 40c tire

Most gravel bikes are designed around an optimal tire size of around 40-42c. For this reason, they suit hardpack, smooth gravel and also asphalt.

Because of their circumference, they are less agile than smaller wheels and may be heavier than them. The weight penalty is balanced out by by the fact that they roll faster with narrower tires. They also have a better rollover capability than smaller sizes, when passing over debris.

700c rims are narrower than 29 inch rims and will accommodate narrower tires.

650b wheels, optimized for 47c tires

Smaller, 650b wheels are increasingly popular. With bigger volume tires, they provide a more supple ride. With 47c rubber, they have a similar diameter to 700c wheels with 30c tires. The large tires and agile steering makes them great for singletrack, rutted gravel and broken-rock trails.

Using 650b sizing, smaller frame sizes stay in proportion and allow a lower standover height.

29”

This is the choice for fast-rolling adventure bikes with big rubber. They share the same circumference as 700c wheels but usually use wider rims. It’s more appropriate to fit wider tires on these wider rims than on 700c rims.

27.5 rims and room for 2.4” wide tires

27.5” wheels are the same circumference and diameter as 650b, but usually sport wider rims for larger tires and rougher applications. Rims will likely be tough. This size is rife on mountain bikes and is shared by a great many bikepacking and ‘monstercross’ bikes. A number of gravel bikes are built to allow tires up to 27.5 x 2.4”.

Tires

Gravel tires can vary. 700c bikes might sport tires as narrow as 35c. 650b gravel bikes will regularly use plump, 47c rubber. Along with a considerable range of sizes, there is a marked difference in the amount of tread available on gravel tires.

When choosing tires for any bike, including a gravel bike, important factors to balance are:

• Comfort vs.
• Speed vs.
• Weight vs.
• Traction.

Wider tires are heavier, slower, more comfortable and act as shock-absorbance. Thinner tires are lighter, faster, less comfortable and more prone to punctures.

Knobblier tires offer more traction. This is ideal for cornering and slippery surfaces such as loose rocks and pea-gravel.

Light-tread and mixed-tread tires have less bite, but are lighter, faster and better for cornering on hardpack.

Tubeless or not Tubeless?

Tubeless tire setups use sealant to fill punctures as they occur

Tubeless tires use a sealant that fills small puncture holes and dries quickly, allowing you to continue riding. Large holes over 6mm will still flatten tires. The debate over whether or not to use tubeless tires is ongoing.

Tubeless tire setups generally result in less punctures. Some true believers praise the perceived weight savings, which may or may not be significant. Setting up tubeless tires is more involved and messy than changing a tube, but can result in less tire-changes in the long run.

If you are undecided, your best bet is to buy a bike with tubeless-ready rims. In a pinch, you can be assured that you can replace a tube when confronted with a puncture in a remote area. If your tubeless setup fails in the boonies, you could be left feeling rather deflated.

Gravel Tire Sizes and Widths

Tires don’t come much narrower than 35c on gravel bikes. Anything smaller won’t cope well with uneven terrain and loose surfaces. Higher volume tires roll at lower pressures and provide more cushioning.

Tires are not often seen with sizing above 700 x 50c (which is close to 29” x 2.0”). Above these widths, wider rims are required and you’ll find these listed as 29” tires. There are a number of 700c tires between 40c and 50c that suit gravel and hardpack dirt roads.

650B x 47c is a very popular size for gravel and ‘all-road’ riding. Gravel bikes often have clearance for tires up to 50c in width. Big volume tires cope well with raucous forest roads and trails. Sizes 2” and over are usually described in inches.

700 x 38c knobbly	650b x 47c light tread

29” – 29 Inch

Twenty nine inch tires are fatter 700c widths, designed for wider 700c rims. They are rarer on actual gravel bikes. 2.2” to 2.6” is a particularly popular range for tires on adventure and exploration bikes.

27.5” rims are the same size as 650b rims, but wider. 27.5” tires start where 650b ends. 2.1” is a very popular size, for coping with a variety of surfaces including chunky trails. Some bikes at the nexus of gravel and monstercross will support widths up to 2.4”.

Bosses, Eyelets and Mounts

Eyelets are threaded fittings that allow you to attach accessories to your bike’s frame.
Mount-points are important if you head out on long rides or bikepacking trips. In these situations you’ll be seeking multiple bottle cages and cargo-housing solutions. If you find yourself heading out for multi-night camping trips, you might be heading more in the direction of a bikepacking bike.

Many mount points are versatile and can be used to attach bottles, frame-bags or cargo. Other eyelets serve as mount-points for fenders.

Bottles

All-day gravel-grinding can be thirsty work. To stay slaked, seek fixings for multiple bottle cages. For some folk, this means three bottle cages. For others, two is enough.

Ample bottle cages

Bottle cages can be attached in many areas, but the most popular points are on your fork, above the down-tube, on the seat-tube within the main triangle and on the underside of the down-tube

Bottles and frame-bags both compete for space in the main triangle of your bike. This is more of an issue on bikepacking bikes, where big loads are the order of the day. You’ll need to prioritize your needs.

There are many ways to set up your gravel bike’s carrying systems, all of which are dependent on your bike’s limitations and your personal preferences.

Cargo

Fork Mounts can be used to carry cargo

On your fork, eyelets allow for the attachment of bottle cages, cargo cages or front racks. Cargo cages can be used to store a variety of items, including waterproof, multi-purpose bags.

Front racks and panniers can be minimal in construction and weight, particularly if eyelets are provided on either side of each fork leg.

You may want to have mount points for cargo on both the frame and fork of your bikepacking bike. Frame mounts can allow you to attach integrated frame-bags, in a neat way that doesn’t interfere with other attachments. This may be the case when attaching bags with straps or lacing. These fastening methods can also rub on and remove paintwork. On the other hand, removing integrated frame-bags requires the removal of any bolts used to attach them.

Racks

All race? No fork or rack mounts here

Racier gravel bikes may not have eyelets on the seat stays to attach racks. Racks aren’t regularly used or needed by gravel riders.

They’re still a staple of fully-loaded touring bikes but have even become redundant to bikepackers. This is due to the fact that gravel rides are only infrequently camping trips, and because camping gear has become more minimal.

Even so, you might want your new bike to have eyelets available on the seat-stays and near the rear dropout, to expand your gravel bike’s versatility. This could allow you to take-on long-haul touring trips or to commute to work with extra supplies.

Front racks and panniers can be compact. They can balance out the weight of you and your frame-bags, making them less likely to negatively affect your bike’s handling.

Fenders

Mounts for full fenders

Fenders are another serious consideration, when it comes to all-weather riding. Your bike should come with fender eyelets front and back.

A frame should have enough tire clearance to fit your preferred tire width, in addition to full-size fenders.

All the mounts you could seek

Some gravel bikes will come equipped with all of the attachments mentioned above. Racier gravel bikes may lack mount-points on the fork and / or eyelets for rear racks.

It pays to consider your cargo requirements before buying your new gravel bike. Work-around solutions can be inadequate and impractical.

Other Cargo Solutions

Handlebar Bags

Cargo isn’t just limited to racks and frame-bags. Handlebar bags are popular on gravel bikes and there are many compact options available. They provide quick and easy access to snacks and essentials.

Top-Tube Bags

Also known as ‘bento boxes’, these are small bags that store readily-accessible items. They attach to your bike’s top-tube and steerer.

Frame-Bags

Partial frame-bag, bento box and saddlebag

Frame-bags store cargo within the main triangle of your bike’s frame. Most frame-bags don’t attach with eyelets. Leave that to the brands that supply custom-fit bolt-on bags for their own bikes. A majority of bags attach securely with straps or lacing. The popularity of frame-bags has increased as new technology has reduced the weight of essential supplies.

Unlike the positioning of cargo in panniers, frame-bags place the heaviest items centrally. Your off-road handling thanks you. Frame-bags can fill the entirety of your main triangle or they can be partial, allowing you to squeeze some bottles into your bike’s main triangle. Many gravel riders use partial frame-bags, while bikepackers roll on multi-night adventures and are more likely to need full frame-bags.

Saddle-Bags

This is another popular cargo solution. Saddle-bags usually strap to the saddle rails and seatpost. They sometime sit atop a saddle-bag rack. They’re made to carry a moderate amount of cargo, with the most weight packed toward the seatpost. A saddle-bag can be found to fit almost any bike, so this needn’t be a major concern in the choice of a new ride.

Budgeting

Gravel bikes range in price from affordable to astronomical. You might want a bike that can also cover your commuting needs. If you’ll be locking this bike up in public areas, you might seek something mid-priced.

Supple steel can be a steal	Affordable in aluminum

At the affordable end, you might be looking at a 16-speed, 700c rig in all-steel or all-aluminum. Most reliable examples start around $700. Many of these come with the geometry and eyelets you seek. You can always upgrade to a carbon fork and fancier drivetrain, somewhere down the (gravel) road.

For your dream bike, you’re looking at vehicles up to and above the eye-bleedingly steep $10,000 mark. At this top-end of the gravel market are aero race rigs with wireless electronic shifting. Carbon fiber is nice but Titanium rigs may present a sounder high-dollar investment. They are less likely to crack than a carbon frame and can, therefore, last a lifetime.

Top-tier titanium	High-modulus carbon

Choosing a Gravel Bike

When you set out to buy yourself a new gravel machine, consider these factors:

Terrain

Are you happy to roll fast on hardpack and crunchy, flat gravel roads? Or do you want something that can fit wider tires (2.1” to 2.4”) and handle some trails? Is this a bike that you also intend to ride on roads with slick tires? For these reasons, consider your new bike’s geometry and tire clearance.

Gravel and Hardpack Dirt-Roads

Tight, racy geometry and maximum 40c tires

These roads are usually compact, firm and mostly devoid of ruts and rocks. For this kind of riding aggressive, road-influenced frame geometry and narrower tire clearances will suit. These bikes are sometimes referred to as ‘All-Road’ bikes.

Rugged Dirt Roads

Also referred to as “doubletrack”, these trails include forest roads and gravels both soupy and rutted. They call for something a little more rugged and fat-tired. Aim for a 650b or 700c gravel bike with clearance up to 50c.

This includes the new trend toward Drop-Bar Gravel Shred bikes. Other gravel bikes blur the line between gravel and Monstercross. These will fit 27.5” tires, sometimes up to 2.4” wide. Adventure Bikes are more stable, a tad slower and accommodate fatter tires than any of these bikes. They’re well suited to bikepacking journeys.

Singletrack

At present, singletrack is still the domain of the mountain bike. Rigid, Drop-Bar Mountain Bikes can handle trails, but are usually used for very off-road touring.

The gravel scene is evolving fast and this has seen the emergence of Drop-Bar Gravel Shred Bikes, with very slack geometry designed around drop bars and tires no wider than 50c. These bikes handle somewhat-raucous trails. Some Adventure Bikes also cope with intermediate singletrack.

Gearing

If you aim to race, you might want a compact 2x drivetrain with a narrower-range cassette. This will allow you to achieve smoother gear changes with smaller gaps between gears.

On the other hand, you might be tackling technical, undulating terrain that could be better served by a 1x drivetrain with a lower end.

Drivetrains and Chainrings

1x – Single Chainring

A single chainring means no front derailleur. This simplifies your drivetrain. With an 11 or 12-speed cassette, your bike may have a similar range to some drivetrains with two chainrings. However, you can usually achieve a wider gear range with a considered 2x setup.

Same bike, different drivetrain – 11-speed, 22-speed and 18-speed

2x – Double Chainring

A double chainring drivetrain can offer extra-low gears for alpine climbs. At the top end, a 2x setup might allow you to really ‘stomp on it’ through the flats. A 2x setup is more complicated than 1x, as the front derailleur requires maintenance, adjustment and tuning.

A number of new bikes are offered with both 1x and 2x setups.

Wheel Size and Tire Clearance

Rubber up to 27.5” x 2.4” fits here

Larger wheels will roll over small obstacles, debris and cracks with ease. Big wheels with large tires are both faster and more comfortable than smaller options. They are also heavier. 700C bikes can have less tire clearance and narrower tires than 650b gravel bikes, to save weight. The narrower tires are just fine for hardpack and gravel, where their nimble nature also comes into play.

It’s wise to consider the wheel and tire combinations that your bike will allow. Some 700c gravel bikes may only have clearance for a maximum tire width of 43mm (43c) or 40c with mudguards. Other bikes are more versatile. For example, one gravel bike may fit 50c tires in both 700c and 650b. Another might fit maximum tire sizes of either 700x48c or 27.5×2.0”.

If you’d like to experiment with different setups, the best gravel bike would be a versatile option that is open to a variety of wheel and tire combinations. A number of new bikes are offered with either 650b or 700c wheels.

Same bike, different wheels

Tire Size

Bigger volume tires are heavier but can be run at lower pressures for more comfort. Narrower tires may decrease wheel diameters but are lighter and may be more agile. They will be less comfortable and more puncture-prone on rougher surfaces.

Smoother, file-tread tires suit gravel and hardpack. Chunky, mountain-bike tires offer more grip and bite on forest roads and loose trails.

Frame Material

Frame material can radically alter the feel, weight and price of a new bike. Importantly, this choice can also mean the difference between the life and death of your frame, in the event of a critical failure. Please refer to the main section (above) for detailed information on bikepacking frames.

Types of Gravel Bike

Gravel Race / All-Road

Equally capable at play or on race day

Build

Gravel and All-Road bikes share some of their DNA with road bikes. Their angles are slightly slacker to allow for better handling on loose surfaces. Standover is increased. Short chainstays make for twitchy, whippy handling.

Hardpack, gravel roads without major rutting or large rocks. With slick tires, they can double as a capable on-road bike.

Frame Material

Carbon Fiber, Steel, Titanium, Aluminum with a carbon fork.

Wheels

Mostly 700c. Some 650b.

Tires and Tire Clearance

• 700c – 38c to 45c
• 650b – 47c / 48c

Mounts

At least two bottle mounts, often three. Sometimes lacking fork mounts or eyelets for rear racks.

Drivetrains and Gearing

1×11 and 2×11 drivetrains predominate.

Brakes

Discs, preferably hydraulic (price permitting).

Strengths

• Speed – Fast on flats, fast to accelerate.
• Versatility – With slick tires, gravel bikes still roll fast on asphalt.
• Weight – Usually built light, to be nimble.

Compromise on…

• Robustness – Not made for anything close to mountain bike trails.
• Comfort – Due to lower-volume 700c tires and aggressive geometry.
• Mounts – A number of bikes have less cargo mounts than other rigs.
• Price – At the high end, they rival performance road bikes for price.

Monstercross

Part cyclocross, part off-road beast

Build

Closer to a road bike than a modern mountain bike. Their geometry resembles upright mountain bikes from the 1990s, but with drop-bars. Slightly sloping tob-tubes and 68mm bottom-brackets are common.

These are versatile bikes that handle gravel, hardpack, asphalt and moderate singletrack with aplomb.

Frame Material

Chromoly steel predominates here.

Wheels

• 700c and 650b.

Tires and Tire Clearance

• 700c – 38c to 45c
• 650b – 47c or thereabouts
• 27.5” – 2.0” to 2.4”

Mounts

New monstercross bikes should have all the eyelets needed for multiple bottles, racks, fenders and some other cargo attachments (on the fork).

Drivetrains and Gearing

1×11 with a wide-range cassette is common. 2x drivetrains are also popular, allowing a wide range for mountainous travails.

Brakes

Discs are ubiquitous. Mechanical is the option for D.I.Y. repairs. Hydraulic Discs are definitely an option.

Strengths

• Versatility – These rigs can be your do-it-all bike. They commute well.
• Purpose-Built – Monstercross bikes will come ready-built for most bikepackers.

Compromise on…

• Agility – These rigs are a little bulkier than your average gravel-grinder.

Adventure Bikes

Ready-to-go, around the world, on the back-roads

Build

Adventure bikes are almost always built for bikepacking. Frames are sturdy with more standover than a road bike. Geometry varies and can be comparable to that of touring bikes or mountain bikes.

Adventure! They are intended for cargo-equipped, off-road, long-distance journeys.

Frame Material

Resilient, flexible and repairable chromoly steel is popular. Aluminum, carbon fiber and titanium also make appearances.

Wheels

• Both 29” and 27.5”.

Tires and Tire Clearance

• 29” – 2.2” – 2.6”
• 27.5” – 2.2” – 3.0”

Mounts

All the eyelets needed for racks, bottles, cargo and fenders.

Drivetrains and Gearing

Both 1x and 2x setups are common. Low gearing is a staple of new models and is necessary for loaded, off-road climbs. Some models use frames that are compatible with Rohloff internal hubs and carbon belt drives.

Brakes

Mechanical disc brakes are popular, for their ease of repair in remote areas.

Strengths

• Built to Bikepack – These rigs are made for this.
• Resilient – Adventure bikes are tough.
• Simplicity – Without suspension or carbon everything, things are simple.

Compromise on…

• Weight – This is a heavy option for a gravel bike.
• Speed – But who’s racing through the wilderness?

Drop-Bar Shred Bikes

Still gravel, just a tad meaner

Build

This is the newest evolution of gravel, with angles as slack as a mountain bike, but room for tires no bigger than 50c. Built light, often from carbon fiber.

Shred. These bikes can ride just fine on level gravel and will work as commuters. But they really impress with their ability to be equally at home sliding through loose rock and filth on singletrack and wrecked forest roads.

Frame Material

Carbon fiber is the best material for strength combined with low weight. Other options include steel and an aluminum frame / carbon fork combination.

Wheels

Tires and Tire Clearance

• 700c” – 45 to 50c
• 650b” – up to 50c
• 27.5″ – up to 2.1″

Mounts

Fork mounts. Multiple bottle mounts. Probably no eyelets for rear racks.

Drivetrains and Gearing

1x setups are more resilient on raucous outings but 2x setups are an option.

Brakes

Hydraulic discs are preferred, for increased responsiveness and higher performance.

Strengths

• Fun – Exciting, fast and unprecedented ride style.
• Versatile – Works over long distances or as a commuter.
• Tough – Great for more off-road expeditions.
• Weight – Light carbon construction.

Compromise on…

• Price – The bleeding edge of geometry could bleed your wallet dry.
• Speed – These bikes are not made for gravel-grinding, long-distance races.

Direct Sales vs. Local Bike Shop

Buying a bike online is a world apart from the experience of choosing a bike from your local bike shop. The benefit of a direct sale from the manufacturer, is that you aren’t paying for the middleman. If you’re buying a bike from an online retailer, they don’t have to pay for rent of premises and they don’t pay an experienced, professional mechanic to assemble and tune your bike. For these reasons, you pay less.

On the downside; you don’t get the benefit of sitting on the bike, test-riding it or getting a feel for it. Even looking at your prospective purchase ‘in-the-flesh’ can be reassuring. Your local bike shop (or ‘L.B.S.’) will assemble, tune and fit your bike for you before you ride away. They will usually offer you a warranty deal and a minor servicing for free within the first few weeks of purchase.

Whatever route you choose, there are benefits and drawbacks. However, if you’re not a DIY mechanic, assembling and tuning your bike may be a learning process that requires the purchase of tools. Once your bike is delivered, it’s highly recommended that you take it to your L.B.S. to have it professionally assembled and tuned. This will ensure that you can feel safe and certain that your bike is protected from any undue wear.

Back to the Grind!

Gravel biking is filling the gaps between road cycling and mountain biking. Its evolving quickly in exciting directions.

Sometimes it can look like a bewilderingly elite genre that is filled to the brim with overpriced tech, and this is partially true. But you don’t need the most high-end option to get out rolling all-day on gravel and dirt roads!

Choose wisely and ride on!

Owen Jesse
Owen has spent decades building and riding bikes; as a messenger, photographer and for an environmental non profit. He’s volunteered teaching others to fix their bikes and loves a genre busting bike build.

Best gravel bikes: our pick of the top models

If you’re looking for adventure on the road less travelled, then you’ll need the best gravel bike for company.

What are gravel bikes?

Gravel bikes are drop-bar bikes that allow you to veer off paved roads and onto more exciting terrain.

From racing to bikepacking, there’ll be a best gravel bike for you, built ready to cope with the demands of tricky terrain and longer, multi-day off-road rides.

Born with the spirit of adventure, the best gravel bikes sit somewhere between endurance road bikes and XC mountain bikes. Nimble on paved sections of road compared to fat-tired MTB steeds, but confidence inspiring when it comes to tackling rough surfaces.

These bikes are ideal for mixed-terrain adventures; gravel paths, broken pavement, fire roads, and of course unpaved dirt tracks. Taking cues from their cyclocross cousins and MTB siblings, don’t let the drop bars fool you, these bikes can tackle some pretty technical terrain too including flowy mountain bike trails.

The best gravel bikes will come with wide tyres, with room for extra mud clearance, and nowadays disc brakes as standard. Expect anything up to 47c on either 700c or 650b wheels.

Mounts for pannier racks and extra storage will also feature on the best gravel bikes, as will the option for fitting mudguards. In fact, that’s probably the biggest difference between gravel and cyclocross bikes, that along with bottle cage mounts.

Are gravel bikes good for road?

Compared to road bikes, you’ll also find wider gear ratios on the best gravel bikes, which will help you ride over loose or hilly terrain especially when carrying luggage for bikepacking.

In general, the best gravel bikes will also have a lower bottom bracket than a cyclocross bikes, helping to provide enhanced stability on rocky, rooty and rough terrain.

For those wanting to head off the beaten track, but worry about keeping up, you might want to consider a electric version. Electric gravel bikes: dirt loving drop bar e-bikes with added oomph give you the all-terrain capability, confidence-inspiring stability, but with some additional assistance.

Our pick of the best gravel bikes

Below is our pick of the best gravel bikes. Read on for more details on what to look for when shopping for a bike to help you take the trail less travelled.

With each bike is a ‘See more’ or ‘Best Deal’ link. If you click on this then we may receive a small amount of money from the retailer when you purchase the item. This doesn’t affect the amount you pay.

Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon

The Diverge is almost the perfect do-it-all bike

• RRP: £4000 Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: Shimano GRX RX810 Weight: TBC
• Pros: Carbon frame, great handling, perfect blend of on road performance and off road capability Cons: Tyres compromise off-road capability.

We found the frame super fast, which was an easy pedal. Even when fully loaded with bags, the 48/31 crankset rarely felt undergeared on any climb.

The wheelbase length made descending with heavy bags a stable joy. Taking the bike off road was a similar predictable handling but nimble experience.

Over all it offers a great balance between the on and off road worlds. Its off-road performance is compromised by the tyre choice and we’d certainly swap them out if we were tackling more serious terrain.

There’s a variety of Specialized Diverge on offer, with the Carbon Comp sitting in the middle spec and price wise. Expect to pick up the entry level aluminium frame Diverge Base E5 for just over £1k, or the range topping S-Works Diverge for closer to £11,000.

Scott Addict Gravel 10

Scott Addict Gravel 10 received a Cycling Weekly Editor’s Choice Award

• RRP: £4,999 Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: SRAM Force eTap AXS HRD Weight: TBC
• Pros: Responsive, Geometary, Wheels Cons: Price

As much as we loved riding this bike around local bridleways, a full carbon Addict frame with deep section carbon rims is just begging to be raced.

It’s probably a little over-specc’ed for the average gravel ride, but if you want Scott’s best you won’t fail to enjoy the ride, especially on steep paths. The Scott Addict Gravel is incredibly responsive in all conditions and terrain, and as a gravel racer, it’s an awesome bike, with a great spec.

The full carbon frameset comes with SRAM Force eTap AXS with Hydraulic disc brakes, carbon Syncros Creston 1.0 Flare handlebars, Syncros Capital 1.0 Synros RWS wheels snf Schwalbe G-ONE Evolution tyres – ready for the start line.

Dimondback Haanjo 7c Carbon

Dimondback Haanjo 7c Carbon is great value

• RRP: $2800 Review Score: 8/10
• Groupset: Shimano GRX/ Praxxis Weight: 10.4kg / 22.92lbs (size large)
• Pros: Versatility, Quality Spec Cons: Geometry won’t suit all

NB: Diamondback bikes are available online at diamondback.com, the Diamondback Haanjo 7C Carbon is priced at $2800. Currently, the brand only ships within the US, international shipping is not available.

At $2,800.00, the Diamondback Haanjo 7C Carbon offers a carbon frame, excellent GRX shifting and hydraulic disc brakes, paired with a quality pair of tyres representing excellent value. The only cost saving measure is the Praxis chainset, but on test worked effectively and didn’t detract from the ride.

The Haanjo is an excellent all-rounder. If you invested in two sets of wheels, you could comfortably go from sportives to singletrack with one bike and still ride to the office on Monday morning.

For a bike that could cover just about all cycling needs at the cost of less than some race wheels, the Haanjo seems like a great deal.

Liv Devote Advanced Pro

Liv’s first dedicated gravel bike

• RRP: £4699 / $4200 Review Score: 8/10
• Groupset: SRAM Force e-tap Weight: 8.1kg / 17.85 (size small)
• Pros: Geo, luggage mounts, versatility Cons: seat post clamp, bars, tyres

The Liv Devote Advanced Pro is a very capable bike, it’s got all the mounts you’d need for bikepacking, rides like a super endurance bike on the road and – with spec changes – could be a trail slayer.

With the spec sheet as standard, we felt it was a little under-equipped for UK riding .A quick swap of the tyres and handlebars would give much more enjoyment on technical trails. If your gravel riding consists more of joining together sections of light gravel or hardpacked dirt with road segments, then it’s spot on.

Cannondale Topstone Carbon

The Topstone Carbon Ultegra RX scored a rare 10/10 in our review

• RRP: £3500 / $4200 Review Score: 10/10
• Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Weight: 8.46kg / 18.65lbs (size large)
• Pros: Ride feel, spec Cons: Nothing!

When we tested this bike, we awarded it a very coveted 10/10, which shows just how much we liked it.

The Topstone could be anything from an off-road bike to a winter road bike, but with ‘Kingpin’ rear suspension coupled with the lightweight carbon frame, we see it fitting best in the gravel category, although the range now has a full suspension, ‘Lefty’ fork, 650b wheels and even an electronic version in the mix (see below), so it could fit in a number of different pigeon holes.

The chainstays, seat tube and top tube have ‘flex zones’ designed to deflect bigger impacts than in a traditional fixed-stay frame setup, creating a comfortable ride with a relaxed geometry which inspires confidence.

At this price point, you’ll enjoy a Shimano Ultegra groupset, paired with Cannondale’s own HG22 Hollowtech carbon rims and WTB Riddler TCS Light 37c tires.

Cannondale Topstone Lefty 3

Despite it’s looks the Topstone Carbon Lefty 3 is exceptionally well balanced.

• RRP: £3400 / $4200 Review Score: 8/10
• Groupset: Shimano GRX Weight: 10.6kg / 23.40lbs (size Xlarge)
• Pros: Excellent fork, balanced and responsive Cons: Lefty hub limits wheel choice, would liek more clearance.

The Cannondale Topstone Carbon Lefty 3 leans much more towards the “fun” end of the gravel spectrum than the “fast” end. If you’re a rider likely to attempt the sort of ‘gravel’ that borders into mountain biking territory, it could be your best friend.

With 650b wheels, 47mm tyres, and the very distinctive Lefty Oliver fork, this bike would not look out of place on a cross country trail were it not for the drop bars.

The rear serves up an additional 30mm of travel, making this full-suspension version of the Cannondale Topstone grippy and planted in corners.

There’s a great range of models and specs available, with our test version coming with Shimano GRX 1x set up Formular rear hub (Lefty specific front) and WTB Byway i23 650b tubeless ready rims and WTB Byway TCS Light tyres.

Sonder Camino AL Rival1 Gravel Bike

With such a well-designed frame and incredible value, it was easy to award 10/10

• RRP: £1,300 Review Score: 10/10
• Groupset: Sram Rival 1 Weight: 10.3kg / 22.7lbs (size medium)
• Pros: Affordable, supreme comfort, practical Cons: Extreme flared bars not to everyone’s taste

The combination of a well-designed frame coupled with the incredible value combined to give this bike a well earnt 10/10.

Although aluminium frames have a reputation for harshness, the slack head angle, long wheelbase and tall headtube, combined with some well-engineered flex, serve to isolate you from the road buzz. The plump 42c WTB tyres help in this department as well. Fully housed external cables not only make maintenance a breeze, but also provide no point of entry along their length of muck and grime to get in and degrade performance.

With mounts for front and rear panniers, as well as some for mudguards and an extra set of bottle bosses on the downtube, many luggage solutions are open to you for bike packing. The large flare of the handlebars leaves a lot of room for a bulky handlebar bag, whilst also putting your wrist in a more comfortable position.

The confidence inspiring geometry, along with the capacity to take 650b x 2.1 inch or 700c x 50mm tyres, meant that it was able to handle trails normally traversed by mountain bikes – and was a whole load of fun when doing so!

Kinesis G2 gravel adventure bike

The Kinesis G2 is a great value and versatile adventure bike

• RRP: £1600 / $1649 Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: SRAM Apex 1 Weight: 9.7kg / 21.38lbs (size small)
• Pros: Comfort, versatility, plenty of clearance, great value Cons: Limiting gearing, needs more sizing options

Unlike many of Kinesis’ frame-only offerings, the G2 adventure bike comes as a full build, aimed at providing versatility rather than targeting any specific gravel sub-genre.

At £1600 / $1649, the G2 represents great value for money that provides all the confidence you need for mixing up your ride with off-road segments. The build isn’t particularly lightweight, but upgrading both the finishing kit and wheelset could be quick wins to knock a bit of weight off.

Vielo V+1 UD Force Edition with dropper seat post

The Vielo V+1 gravel bike can be set up with either 700c or 650b wheels

• RRP: £5499 / TBC Review Score: 8/10
• Groupset: SRAM Force 1x Weight: 8.25kg / 18.1p (size small)
• Pros: Versatile on and off road, light for the spec Cons: Expensive

Read more: Vielo V+1 review

The Vielo V+1 gravel bike impressed us in review with its versatility and lightweight when considered alongside the 38c tires specced.

Designed to excel in rough mucky conditions, this bike can be run with 700c or 650b wheels, the latter fitted with 2.1″ tires for the more gnarly off-road rider.

You get a SRAM Force 1 groupset, and there’s even dropper post compatibility. The only downside for us was the price, so it’s worth having a look at the slightly cheaper build options, or go frame only for your own custom build.

See more: Vielo V+ Force at Vielo from £3999.00

Ribble CGR AL 105 – Sport

The Ribble CGR AL 105 – Sport

Read more: Ribble CGR review

• RRP: £1399 / $1525 Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: Shimano 105 hydraulic disc Weight: 9.72kg / 20.43lbs (size large)
• Pros: Looks, versatility, spec as you like via bike builder Cons: Handlebar shape

Ribble’s CGR says what it does on the box – it’s the UK-based brand’s ‘Cross, Gravel and Road bike. This machine is all about versatility.

Ribble offers the chassis constructed from aluminum, titanium or steel – in this case we went for the entry-level alloy option.

It’s a fairly hefty machine that you can trust on rooty trails, though it has been slimmed down when compared to former iterations. The seat stays especially are now more slender and dropped for extra compliance.

The geometry is very relaxed, with a short reach and tall head tube lending to stability off-road, though there’s plenty of room to get a bit more aggressive if you want to.

Thanks to Ribble bike builder you can have this bike any way you like. Our model has Shimano 105 and came in at £1399 / $1525.

Pinarello Grevil

The aerodynamic Pinarello Grevil gravel bike certainly looks unique

• RRP: £3800 / $5980 Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: Shimano Ultegra hydraulic Weight: 8.87kg / 19.56lbs (size 530)
• Pros: Aero frameset, clearance, 650b wheels, fast on and off-road Cons: short saddle, thin bar tape

The Pinarello Grevil has the flashy aero looks of the brand’s top-end bikes yet doesn’t lose its footing when the tarmac ends, to let you go where no Pinarello ought to be. We found it great fun to ride and no slouch on tarmac either.

It’s certainly a considered purchase price-wise, but the Grevil actually sits at the mid-point range when compared to Pinarello’s road-going lineup. If you’re after one of the best all-around, do-it-all bikes, then you’d be hard pushed to find a better option.

Boardman ADV 9.0

The Boardman ADV 9.0

• RRP: £1650 / TBC Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: SRAM Rival 1x hydraulic Weight: TBC
• Pros: Great riding position, well-considered finishing kit Cons: sluggish on road, tires too heavy

We found the Boardman ADV 9.0 a very fun ride; it was comfortable and gave great control, as did the well thought out kit supplied on it. As an all-around package it works brilliantly with a spec perfectly suited to the riding style, although it might be worth investing in some faster tires if you’re riding longer stretches of tarmac.

This bike could be a specialist bike for true adventure riding, but has the capability to be a commuter, winter trainer, tourer or a cyclocross bike. If you’ve only got space for one bike at home, this is certainly a contender for that spot.

The ADV 9.0 series is pretty hard to come by now, but the slightly more affordable ADV 8.0 series should provide just as much fun on the road less traveled.

Fustle Causeway GR1

The Fustle Causeway GR1 is a gravel bike certainly at the MTB end of the spectrum

• RRP: £2513.00 / TBC Review Score: 9/10
• Groupset: Shimano GRX 1X hydraulic disc Weight: 9.46kg / 20.85 (size M/L)
• Pros: Class-leading handling, durable build, very capable off-road, customizable spec
• Cons: Wheels kill the ride, not as snappy on the road

The Causeway range has recently been updated to the Causeway GRX , which means the groupsets are now gravel specific. The Northern Irish brand may be relatively new to the market but founder, Alastair Beckett, is anything but. With a career designing mountain bikes for the likes of Nukeproof and Forbidden, it’s no real surprise that Alastair’s drop bar offering has a strong MTB bias.

Fustle offers full build customization with their direct to consumer model, so you can choose from a range of wheel brands, 700c or 650b, a dropper post, tires, saddle and cockpit to suit you and your local terrain straight out of the box.

Merida Silex

The Merida Silex has nine options to choose from

• RRP: from £2,000
• Groupset: Shimano GRX Weight: from 8.71kg / 19.20 lbs (claimed)
  
• Pros: Large range to choose from, well specc’ed, multiple mounting points Cons: TBC

As with the Caynon Grail below, we’ve only played with the electric version of this bike, which will offer quite a different package and ride feel, but our experience with Merida bikes in general tells us that the non-electric version is worth a look too.

The bikes are multiday adventure ready, with several mounting points for bottle cages and bags, and the choice between 700c or 650b wheel size, for extra of tyre clearance.

There are several versions to choose from, with the entry £2k model coming with a Aluminum 6060 frame and carbon fork. The Merida Silex 7000, pictured above, features a full carbon frameset, Shimano GRX groupset and Fulcrum Racing 700 DB wheels.

Canyon Grail Gravel Bike

There are 17 models of the Canyon Grail to choose from

• RRP: from £1,649 / $1,699
• Groupset: Shimano GRX Weight: 9.42kg / 20.76 lbs (claimed)
  
• Pros: Huge range to choose from, well specc’ed Cons: Almost too many to choose from

It’s hard to know where to start with the Canyon Grail, there are so many in the range, 17 at the last count, that you’d be hard pushed to know what one is right for you.

Pitched as Canyon’s all road all day gravel adventure bike, the Grail comes with the, as expected, dropped-bar and fast tyres for covering big distances, but with more relaxed geometry to help keep you fresh.

We’ve only seen the electric version, but liked it so much that we gave it a 2020 Editors Choice award. We found the frame geometry and ride quality are excellent and boosts confidence whilst remaining comfortable and as per usual with Canyon the spec vs price is highly competitive.

For us, we could have done with slightly more aggressive tyres to really let it shine, but apart from that found it to be the whole package.

Obviously there’s going to be some stark differences with the non-ebike version, but its certainly a reason to want to know more and worth checking out in more detail.

Trek Checkpoint SL 5

Trek Checkpoint SL 5

• RRP: £2800 / $2899.99
• Groupset: Shimano GRX RX600/RX800 test Weight:9.72 kg / 21.43 lbs (Size 56)
  
• Pros: IsoSpeed, Horizontal sliding dropout, Carbon armor on downtube Cons: No T47 BB

Trek’s Checkpoint is actually the third off-road drop-bar bike in the brand’s range, with the Boone and Crockett being pitched more towards the CX crowd. The Checkpoint SL5 is made from the brand’s OCLV 500 carbon and sees Trek’s bump-eating IsoSpeed decoupled, and the sliding Strangle Hold dropout for those who want to run a singlespeed, or make slight tweaks to handling characteristics.

The frame comes with a Shimano GRX 2×11 speed drivetrain and is shod with rack and fender mounts throughout, including on the top tube for a bento-style snack box. There is room between the stays for 45c tires, but Trek sends the bike out with 40c Bontrager GR1 rubber, so depending on where you ride it may be worth adding burlier bike shoes to your shopping cart.

What is the appeal of a gravel bike or adventure road bike?

If you’ve ever gone out on a ride on your best road bike and unpaved roads, fire trails or alluring single track as you passed, wondering where they lead but hesitating to head off the tarmac, then a gravel bike or adventure road bike may be for you.

These bikes aim to meld on-road efficiency with off-road capability, so you’ll find overlaps in design features with both road and cyclocross bikes, as well as incorporating elements from mountain bike technology. As standard you should expect disc braking and clearance for wider tires.

Whereas cyclocross bikes are designed with short, muddy races in mind, gravel and adventure bikes take longer unpaved rides into account. You’ll still find race-orientated builds in the gravel category for long-distance or enduro-style events, alongside adventure bikes that feature additional clearance and mounts to accommodate luggage and often wider tires for more remote journeys.

Adventure and gravel bike frame geometry

Stability and handling are key when it comes to riding off-road. Expect to see a lengthened wheelbase, slack headtube angle and lower bottom bracket compared to road bikes, which aid with technical terrain and steeper descents.

The rider position is typically more upright than on road bikes, both for comfort over long rides and to allow the rider to move their weight around more easily when negotiating off-road obstacles.

15mm thru-axle and hydraulic discs on the GT Grade

Do gravel bikes have front suspension?

While thru-axles have quickly become standard, a technology borrowed from mountain biking along with disc brakes, front suspension, and even rear aren’t as commonplace yet.

Quick-release wheels are still sometimes found – particularly at the rear – the new norm is 12mm or sometimes 15mm thru-axles, which make for easier disc brake alignment. Rear-axle spacing for disc brake wheels is typically 135mm (quick release) or 142mm (thru-axle), or occasionally 148mm boost spacing for stronger wheelsets.

More adventure or utility centric frames will come with mounts for racks and fenders, so that the bike can be used as a sturdy commuter or year-round road bike. At the most extreme end of the adventure bike market, fork leg mounts are becoming increasingly common for even more storage options.

Gravel bike and adventure bike tires

You can find adventure road and gravel bikes shod with tires of pretty much any width between a narrow 28c and 47c, plus tires measured in inches on 650b wheel builds! There’s a real range in tread patterns available off the peg or fitted to gravel and adventure builds dependent on their intended use. You can always consider changing these to suit the kind of terrain you’d like to ride.

More aggressive tread patterns can help in wet and mucky conditions.

There’s not really a consensus on the best pattern, with some bikes coming with fat, slick tires, whilst others have file treads or low profile knobs. It’s all depends on where you find yourself riding, and what the conditions are like. In the UK, you’re more likely to come across patches of wet mud year-round, so a more aggressive tread can be useful in those situations to help you maintain grip, although at the expense of road speed. While in the US gravel roads can range from well-graded packed dirt that almost resembles tarmac, to the crushed and graded limestone you find in the Flint Hills of Kansas. Finding the right tires for your riding terrain may take some experimentation, and don’t be afraid to try something with more or less tread than you’re used to.

Most gravel and adventure bikes are specced with tubeless or tubeless-ready tires and rims, ready for conversion to a tubeless set-up. Rather than having to replace an inner tube every time you flat, the sealant in the system will (in theory) plug any punctures from sharp objects like thorns, which is a real advantage when it comes to riding off-road. You may need to re-inflate the tire a little if you have a puncture, and make sure you’re equipped with a spare tube and full tubeless repair kit for more serious tire damage.

Gravel bike and adventure bike gearing

Adventure road bikes and gravel bikes are designed to be ridden on the road as well as off, so you’ll typically find a wide range of gears to allow both efficiency and speed on the road, as well as enough gears to cope with loose and steep terrain off-road.

A 1X drivetrain keeps it simple and can allow for greater rear tire clearance

The choice between a double or single chainring upfront is usually down to rider preference. A 1X (one-by) set up gives ultimate simplicity and often allows for greater tire clearance, often at the cost of top-end road gears for quick descending or sprinting. Double chainrings offer more options for riders that prefer to spend more time on smoother terrain or on the road.

Adventure and gravel bike pedals

Pedal choice is a matter of personal taste and will be dependent on your riding style. If you ride predominantly on roads and well-maintained paths where you rarely need to put a foot down, then road shoes and cleats may be a good choice.

Mountain bike style pedals make walking, mounting and dismounting easier

On the other hand, more demanding off-road riding may mean that you need to dismount and walk with the bike or put a foot down for stability. In this case, mountain bike pedals and shoes may be a better choice for their ease of walking, with grippy treaded soles and recessed cleats.

Adventure and gravel bike components

Adventure and gravel bikes almost exclusively use disc brakes for their better modulation and more consistent stopping in dry, wet and muddy conditions. This also has a really positive impact on wheel longevity compared to rim brakes for off-road riding.

On higher value models the brakes will be hydraulic, while budget bikes typically have mechanical calipers. With Shimano’s GRX gravel-specific groupsets available in hydraulic disc only, this tends to be the preference. You’ll occasionally find mechanical disc brakes on adventure bike builds, where long-distance riders find them easier to maintain and repair in more remote situations.

Canyon’s double-decker handlebar certainly divided opinion on release

Different types of handlebars are also worth considering on adventure bikes. Flared bars are generally accepted as a good upgrade to give greater stability in the wider drops for rough terrain and descending off-road. The wider the flare, the easier it is to fit a handlebar bag on the front of the bike and still be able to fit your hands on the drops and brakes at the same time. Raised bars such as the Specialized Hover Bar also help to give more clearance over the front wheel for smaller riders, as well as providing a more upright riding position.

With a lack of innovation-quashing UCI rules in the gravel sector, more ambitious designs are being tested, like Canyon’s radical double-decker bar, designed to add additional compliance to the ride.

Источники:

https://www.bike-mailorder.com/gravel-bikes/
https://www.gravelbike.com/
https://www.bikeride.com/best-gravel-bikes/
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group-tests/adventure-road-and-gravel-bikes-a-buyers-guide-187448